quote bro megalord

I think its the local people mentality, and the mentality is that thick is better since old days as old days mech have thought so. Well, it was indeed that many decades back thicker oil provide better mechanical protection, but unfortunately they don't really update their oil knowledge and thus till this very day many are still recommanding thick oils for "better" engine protection. Yes, they are very professional when it comes to engine and mechanical work, and when we see them perform a job well done, we naturally trust their ability and thus believe what they say. This is where all goes wrong.

My technician Shi Fu is a old timmer as well, with more then 40 years of mechanical experience with various brands of cars and tanks and whatever that can be repaired. However, his oil knowledge is no where. Today i still tap his mechanical knowledge, but when it comes to lubrication, he is nowhere updated. And being a old timmer, he is quite stubbon, so i didn't expect him to take what i say though he does take note of what i do say.

So with the mentality in mind and most of the commonly available oil are 40wt, and suddenly people jump out say 20wt is honda recommanded vis, i think... people wanna be safe and thus take the grade in between. So thats why i reccon why 30wt oils are so hot nowadays. I think for the majority to move on to 20wt, the manufacturer must recommand 10wt oils, as the mentality that thicker oil = better mechanical protection is always there in local people mind.
In a fact it is, but it doesn't matter anyway since local rides don't really require much boundary layer lubrication by the way they drive...... I mean, if our ride is 95% running on boundary lubrication on thin oil, changing to thick oil won't really increase the protection, but only zaps power and screws cold start protection.

quote bro megalord's reply:

Well, i don't know what to say... We all know nascar rides run on 10wt oils just to unlesh the additional horses to win races, and its proven that those nascar rides are fast and furious when running.. maybe they mean that the 20wt are too thick to be proven on track, as most are running 10wt oils to compete? Redline has a 2wt racing oil even.

I don't know what some "professional" racing mechs are thinking locally. They rather put in PAO oil inside the racing rides and wait for them to shear to 20wt in a short while then to put shear resistant 20wt inside from the begining. A thinned-to-20wt-oil has more protection then a true breed 20wt oil? I don't think thats in anyway true.

quote bro megalord


High heat in this region do not kill oil life. Thats oil mech thinking actually. The engine oils and engines are pretty comfortable in this region of heat. The driving habbits has a far far greater impact on the oil life and engine life then driving in scorching sun.
I always argue with those old school mechs on this issue, and there is no way i can shut them down but strangely this example could. There is this person in Bitog who drives a F575, and also has a maybach. He runs 20wt oils on them both. And he compared his UOA of 20wt oil with his neighbour's 550 which runs on SHU. Guess what? His 575 shows lesser wear with a 20wt oil. The 550 running on 40wt oil showed more wear. Both does spirited driving and very similar driving habbits. This example never fail to shut them down.

quote bro megalord:

Actually when people ask me if 20wt oils are meant to be used in snowing countries, i would ask them if 40wt oils are meant for "submarines" travelling amongst the flow of molten rocks and magma. Their best defence is always that if 40wt oil is not good, why is it so popular in singapore? it has to be a singaporean grade. I would then question why are there so many casio to rolex in SG? Because casio is better?

I don't know how to convince local owners anymore actually. Show them UOA, they don't believe. Break open engine show them inside, they don't believe. But when their engine break down prematurely, its wear and tear. When a 200+k km engine running on thin oil break down, they say its because of the thin oil.

so what do you guys think? or again, go with the majority? or loudest voice?

I still dun really understand the oil and petrol thingy
I just know everu 10K km bring my M1 gold to change
Top up petrol when its 1/4 left

Me like ELF....tried the Mugen....not very good....and expensive....

OWS un changed in my engine for nearly 7000km liao. and noticed that it's a tad bassy nosiy. wonder is it due to the engine oil?

but motul v300 seems attractive. how much is it bro?

Motul V300 was quoted at $30 per quart. You need 4 quarts... I guess that is the official benchmark price?

I'm sure there are 'less expensive' alternative sources for Motul... just keep looking...

bro mark, u tried the v300 yet? any FR from u?

not yet leh... now got a few bottles of M1 5W30 ... use first... den change to Redline 5W-20, and then motul 5W-40 ba... sigh so many to try...

feel like trying out the Redline Racing 5W20 on track at Sepang... den drain out for OUA before drive home... fill with other oil of course... see how first...